Wabi-Sabi is a concept that roughly describes how the beauty of an object lies in its imperfections, rooted in Japanese Buddhism. According to Wabi-Sabi, the tension created between different textures makes you stop, notice and reflect. An object that has noticeably aged, maybe even been broken and repaired is worth more aesthetically than something new, perfect. This also ties into the concept that beauty comes from the transience of things; the fact that nothing lasts forever brings value to the here and now.
With this line, Franz Hofstätter attaches the concept of Wabi-Sabi to natural wine. He wants us to find Wabi-Sabi in his wines and has named them accordingly. These are bottles for you to savor, to be in the moment, appreciate the rough edges of the wine, feel the tension they create and know that this wine and the moment(s) attached to it will not last forever. In fact, in the case of this particular wine it will last for a very short time only, as the bottles were produced in a highly limited quantity
Franz Hofstetter originally made a name for himself marketing Austrian wine abroad. Love has brought him to the Wachau, a region known for a strict adherence to traditional protocols when it comes to winemaking and for the resulting big, often very ripe white wines from single vineyards.
With the help of his winemaking friends Michael Gindl, Johannes Zillinger and Erich Macherndl he started the Wabi Sabi project with the 726 Vines that grow in his in-laws’ backyard. With time he got offered to buy grapes from the only organic vineyard in the area and expanded his production. His wines are a complete departure from what’s usually found in the Wachau: they are full of freshness, minerality, low in alcohol and with a touch of funk, serving to increase the tension and bring extra Wabi-Sabi to the wine.
726 Vines
A field blend made from the aforementioned vineyard in the in-laws’ backyard. Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Gelber Muskateller and Neuburger harvested and fermented together. Hazy in the glass with fresh floral and fruity and slightly grassy notes. Dry, fresh with a salty minerality on the palate. A white wine for more experienced natural wine drinkers.
Orange Moon
A blend of mostly Grüner Veltliner with a bit of Riesling, with four days maceration, making a light orange wine. Of amber color and a little hazy in the glass, with notes of cantaloupe, yellow plum, citrus peel, mint and orange flower. The palate is fresh, lively, juicy and mineral. The perfect entry-level orange wine!
